Nha Trang: Preserving the salty flavor of homeland

A traditional craft

Vinh Truong Ward is the cradle of traditional fish sauce production in this coastal city. Upon entering the fishing village of Cua Be, one can already smell the fragrant aroma of fish sauce wafting in the air. Walking along Vo Thi Sau Street, one can easily come across several traditional fish sauce production facilities. According to local elders, the fish sauce craft in Vinh Truong has a history of hundreds of years. Residents here often use anchovies or scad to make fish sauce, with anchovies being the best. The anchovies from the waters off Khanh Hoa, combined with Hon Khoi salt, contribute to the exceptional taste of Cua Be village fish sauce.

“For years, I’ve been using anchovies to make fish sauce, following the ratio of three parts fish to one part salt. The technique of making fish sauce may seem simple on the surface, but each region has its unique processing methods and secrets. The type of fish and salt from each region greatly influence the diverse and unique flavors of fish sauce. Anchovies caught in Nha Trang waters, which are a mix of warm and cold currents, are firm, fresh, and fatty, resulting in delicious fish sauce,” shared Nguyen Thi Choi, an experienced fish sauce maker.

Phan Minh Tuan, Chairman of the Farmers’ Association of Vinh Truong Ward, added, “In the past, fish sauce was mainly made for family use, with a portion sold to residents in Nha Trang and neighboring areas. Back then, fish sauce didn’t have labels or marketing but was still widely recognized as a local specialty. Later, as trade improved, many families started producing fish sauce on a larger scale, selling it to the northern provinces and even collaborating with large enterprises. Over time, traditional methods have been partly replaced by machinery, reducing labor and time. For example, wooden barrels have been replaced by large tanks for fermenting fish sauce.”

During its prime, Vinh Truong fish sauce was produced by major establishments like Ngoc Trang, Ngoc An, Huong Lan, Thai Long, Trong Hue, My Thuan, Chin Tuy, Hanh Quyen, Hoa Cuc, Chau Son, and Viet Hai. Most of these producers were relatives, with many being siblings. However, in recent years, the craft has faced competition from large companies and relocation policies pushing fish sauce production out of residential areas. Some producers have moved to Ca Na (Ninh Thuan), while others have ceased operations altogether. Despite these challenges, many fish sauce makers in Vinh Truong remain committed to preserving the traditional craft and elevating the value of Nha Trang’s fish sauce.

Efforts to preserve the craft

Accompanying Tuan, I visited My Thuan Fish Sauce Production Facility—one of the oldest establishments in Vinh Truong, with three generations dedicated to the craft. Tucked in a small alley, the facility houses dozens of large tanks, each capable of holding 30-40 tons of fish for fish sauce production on a large scale. The tanks are equipped with pumps for stirring and extracting the fish sauce. Le Huynh Nhu Thien, Director of My Thuan Fish Sauce Co., Ltd., shared, “My grandmother made fish sauce for sale, but it wasn’t until my father’s time that production expanded significantly. Currently, we process about 1,500 tons of fish annually, yielding around 1 million liters of fish sauce. Most of it is sold as raw fish sauce to major companies, with only a small portion bottled for regular customers.”

With 30 years in traditional fish sauce production, Chin Tuy Fish Sauce is another renowned brand in Vinh Truong. During my visit, employees of Chin Tuy Co., Ltd. were busy preparing for the Tet season. Chin Tuy offers fish sauce products ranging from 15 to 45 degrees protein, packaged in 0.5-liter, 1-liter, and 5-liter bottles. Dang Tu Cuong, a representative of the company, noted, “Every year, we produce fish sauce from anchovies caught in the waters off Khanh Hoa and neighboring provinces. Previously, we exported fish sauce abroad, but now we mainly distribute it domestically through supermarkets and e-commerce platforms. We also supply fish sauce to hotels and resorts for tourists.”

Whether producing raw fish sauce or developing their own brands, Vinh Truong fish sauce makers strictly adhere to traditional fermentation methods without using chemicals, ensuring the sauce is rich, aromatic, and flavorful. The common formula involves mixing “three parts fish to one part salt” for fermentation. The mixture is then placed in barrels or tanks, compressed with planks and stones, and left to ferment for about 11 months before extracting the fish sauce. However, according to Thien, each family has its own secrets passed down through generations. “For example, prolonged fermentation increases protein content but reduces flavor and dulls the color of the sauce,” he explained.

In addition to maintaining traditional quality, many fish sauce brands in Nha Trang, such as Ngoc Trang, Chin Tuy, and Hanh Quyen, focus on enhancing packaging and branding to win consumer trust. In 2023, Hanh Quyen Co., Ltd. became a pioneer by achieving a 3-star OCOP (One Commune, One Product) rating for its fish sauce products. Recently, Chin Tuy Co., Ltd. also had three fish sauce products recognized as 3-star OCOP by Nha Trang City People’s Committee. The company is preparing to register two products for a 4-star OCOP rating in 2025.

The fish sauce craft has significantly contributed to transforming the lives of Vinh Truong residents. While some worry that the tradition may fade as fewer families continue the craft, I firmly believe that the dedication of passionate fish sauce makers will ensure that Vinh Truong’s traditional fish sauce endures through time.

VFM